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People
know it sounds stylish to ask for "a dry white wine" at a
bar.
Never mind that what they usually get--a rich, fruity
Chardonnay--is not really a dry wine. (Truly dry wines such
as a flinty Chablis, an austere white Bordeaux, or dry
sherry are not actually very popular.) I'm not denying
German wines are sweet. But most of them balance sweetness
with acidity nicely, creating a soft, delicate product that
complements seafood quite well. They ascend a scale that
roughly corresponds with sweetness--Kabinett, Spätlese,
Auslese, Beerenauslese, and
Trockenbeerenauslese (the terms refer to the wine's
sugar level). You need concern yourself only with the first
three types of wine; the others are only drunk with (or in
place of) dessert. Uncork a young Moselle (from any of these
three categories), smell its beautiful perfumed nose, and
sip it on a warm summer afternoon. As a friend of mine said
(of Bernkasteler Doctor, one of the best vineyards in
Germany), "This is what God drinks at 5 o'clock in the
summer."
More noticeable than their sweetness is the lack of
alcohol in German wines, which is why they taste light (or
weak, if you prefer) compared with most other wines. German
wines can have as little as 8 percent alcohol. The norm for
a French wine is 11 percent, and the level can go up to 13.
(The difference proportionally is not insignificant. Two
glasses of German wine would have as much alcohol as about
one and a quarter glasses of a French white wine.) But this
should be its hidden advantage--as a lunch wine. German
wines are perfect for the working lunch. They go with a wide
variety of foods, including most ethnic foods, and are
perhaps the only wine that can accompany a salad (the
sweetness can withstand the acidity of the vinegar). Most
important, the low levels of alcohol mean you won't fall
asleep in the afternoon. The Germans may take two-week spa
vacations, but they have a lovely solution to the post-lunch
productivity problem.
Excerpted from
MSN.com
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