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19 April
2003
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www.beaconhillwine.com
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Choosing
the Best Kosher Wines
You Think
Keeping Kosher Means You Have to Forgo Fine Wines? Think
Again.
Did you know
that kosher no longer means just heavy, sweet wines?
Kosher wines have come a very long way. There's no reason
anyone should feel left out of the world of fine wine
because they keep kosher.
What Makes
a Wine Kosher?
It's a complex
subject.
It starts with
special treatment and attention to cleanliness. Rabbi's or
their assistants supervise the wine's production from
crush to bottling. Experts say that wines labeled "kosher
for Passover" are made with special enzymes and yeasts and
fining agents - not animal byproducts, like gelatin, for
example - that clarify the wine. Often their front labels
will sport an "O" with a "U" inside with a "P" near it.
This, is the stamp of approval of the largest kosher
certification body in the world and basically means
there's no need to read the label further to learn that
the wine is kosher for Passover.
Some wines are
both kosher for Passover and mevushal. Baron Herzog states
that its wines and other kosher wines go through this
added step. Sometimes it's listed on the label. "A
mevushal wine," Herzog's representative said, "is one that
can be handled by the general public, like a non-Jewish
waiter, and still remain kosher." What that does not go
through this mevushal process must be served by observant
Jews to retain its kosher status.
Basically,
Herzog told us, a mevushal wine is heated in seconds by
flash pasteurization, with the temperature brought down
quickly so as not to harm the wine. Some wineries do this
to the unfermented white and blush juice; others do it
with reds after fermentation. This added step, the Herzog
people said, not only doesn't harm the wine, but "enhances
its aromatics and complexities" while "stabilizing the
color and tannins."
Also keep in
mind that you can find just about any kind of kosher wine
you're looking for - Italian whites, French reds, Israeli
sparklers, California dessert wines.
Here's some
advice: Have some fun with this. There are enough kosher
wines out there to have a tasting of your own. Buy two or
three wines of a certain type right now, put them in
numbered paper bags and taste them. You'll know which you
like best and that will be the wine for your Passover
dinner. As always, the wine that tastes best to you will
be the best wine.
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Beacon Hill Wine and Spirits, specializing in hard to find wines, champagnes and spirits
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